I rub his back and say, "Santi" a couple times. His eyes open for one second. Then he's gone again. He's deeply asleep and even if I wake him chances are he won't want to go to the beach and he'll be pissed off that I woke him up and then REALLY not want to go down to the beach.
So I walk out of the house by myself and run down the sand dune and keep running for a few minutes down to the south end. I see fun waves along the way but decide to go almost all the way to the rocks.
I jump in and right off the bat I'm catching bombing little barrels, from 1-5 feet high, and usually more wide than high.
"This water is so warm and crystal clear, amazing!"
"I wish my GoPro was working! These waves are beautiful and the glowing green grass-covered headland in the background would look incredible."
(My new GoPro got water inside of it after about 20 uses. Still awaiting a response from customer service. The shot above is from 2 weeks ago.)
"It's really consistent, I want to see how many waves I can catch. Ya, I'll count my waves, I've never done that. I'll aim for 80 barrels."
"Oh man, should I run back up to the house and wake Santi up? This is probably going to be the only time for good waves today (the tide and wind won't be right for the rest of the day)."
"No, by the time I run up and he actually wakes up and gets ready it will probably be too late. And then I'll miss out on these waves!"
"He shouldn't have stayed up so late last night watching a movie. I knew the waves would probably good this morning. I'm a bad parent."
So I stay out there alone and ride barrel after barrel while dozens of people and dogs take their morning strolls along the beach.
After about 30 minutes and 47 barrels I feel hungry and decide I've gotten plenty, I'm ready to head in. I walk in to the dry sand and begin jogging home.
"It's so good, Santi!"
"Hey Dad! Ya it looks good!"
"I caught 47 barrels!"
"Really!? Were you at the south end?"
"Ya almost all the way. Let's go!"
We run to the end of the beach and jump into the water together.
We catch wave after wave.
He decides to count his barrels too.
My highlights are when we catch the same wave and ride towards each other in the barrel. So fun to see his excited face for a moment before we get destroyed, then pop up next to each other.
We're laughing and hooting for each other. This is the best playground in the world.
And come up smiling.
I get so much joy from bodysurfing waves like this. I don't know why exactly. Even more than surfing most of the time.
But it gives me the most joy to see HIM enjoying it.
I surpass my goal of 80 barrels and get to 100.
He aims for 50 and ends up with 63.
But boy enough to usually hold my hand when we're walking together.
On the way he does some math. Dad caught 100-47 = 53. He caught 66 in that time. So that's 13 more than Dad. He's stoked.
He does quick and correct calculations in his head even though he doesn't go to school and does no formal math learning. I'm stoked.
(He's got my headphones on and is learning Japanese on an app on my phone next to me while I write this. He's interested in Japanese anime, food, and snowboarding and has a dream of learning to speak Japanese and living there with his two best friends when he's older. He tried one language app a few weeks ago but it didn't grab him. He downloaded another one 30 minutes ago and is cranking away on it, doing silent fist pumping when he draws a character correctly.)
But mostly I marvel at the always~perfection of the Universe and how well it all works when I LET IT GO.